System file not found error

This type of error is often found on boot up , as well as the software file and sometimes others , and is a quick fix that I often use on my pc and others.
You can do this with the hard drive in place but also with it removed .

Removing the hard drive you will need to connect it to another computer with iether a usb to harddrive connector or to the main ata or sata cable (a laptop hdd will need an adapter for the size)
Navigate to the windows file and find the system.ini (in system32), the file may be missing or corrupt, if it is there change the extension to .kak , .old or .prev (really anything you want) and then do another search for the system.bak , once found COPY this to the desktop and change to system.ini , and COPY again and paste into the system 32 folder , if it says do you want to replace existing file with this one then you have made a mistake , you want to keep the original files to later undo what you have done if you need to !

This file is considerable smaller than the original and will have errors with the installed programs but will allow the system to boot to windows and you can fix the rest from there. It is usually the file from when the windows first was booted and registered. You may also find this file in last known good configuration but not always.

You can sometimes do this in the safe mode but not if the file is missing, there are some recovery discs that allow you to access the hdd files and move them around and these will work to.
Windows recovery is a pain and rarely works for me. This also undos and passwords that were not there at the original start , but normally the users files will be unable to be accessed.

There is no reason you cannot undo these steps unless you delete or forget where you put any file so be careful not to do that.

This also works for other ini files no found.

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Wireless card works but no wireless connection found

I had this problem, after installing many cards and a great many drivers, I tried a number of thinks to get it working , in the end it was this

start

run

services.msc

events>automatic

start

run

cmd

netsh int ip reset c:\resetlog.txt
Still no go , so restart

start

run

cmd

netsh winsock reset

You must restart is the answer

And after the restart all in working well , such a simple problem, that didint take much to fix , the problem is that the majority of sites that have the answer skate aroung a load of wihtout telling you the answer of want you to join their paid site for a tiny piece of info.

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Sata II

This is another of those things where you should know that you need it even before you know what it is. ATA (Advanced Technology Attachment) is the name of the interface that connects your Hard Drive to your Motherboard and the rest of your computer. The faster the interface can move your data from the hard drive to the processor, then obviously the faster your computer can go (think of your computer as one pig  potential bottleneck). Initially it’s never a problem. The interface is much faster than the peripheral attached to it, and everyone thinks that this is the best it’s gonna get and leave it at that. Then of course the Peripherals get faster (and they get faster in a hurry) and the Interface guys have to catch up. Ultra ATA/66 is the caught up technology that lets your computer access your hard drives information at the accelerated pace that today’s programs demand. But don’t worry too much, all of toady’s current Motherboards and Hard Drives are ULTRA ATA/66 and don’t look now but Ultra ATA/100 is already here and fast becoming the industry standard.

The majority of SATA II drives available right now are not capable of 3.0Gbps transfer speeds and others don’t claim support for features we almost take for granted; like NCQ. The original SATA standard – usually referred to as SATA, U150, SATA150, or SATA I – gave us a peak transfer rate from the HDD interface to the system bus of about 1.5Gbps. Many believe that if SATA I drives have transfer rates of 1.5Gbps, then 3.0Gbps rates must be held by drives which have SATA II in their names. This is definitely not the case according to the SATA organization:

“The first step toward a better understanding of SATA is to know that SATA II is not the brand name for SATA’s 3Gb/s data transfer rate, but the name of the organization formed to author the SATA specifications. The group has since changed names, to the Serial ATA International Organization, or SATA-IO.” – SATA-IO-

The three main misconceptions are that:

  • “SATA II” has now been renamed to SATA-IO
  • SATA-IO must support 3Gbps transfers
  • SATA-IO must support features like NCQ and Hot Plug

The SATA-IO, or SATA International Organization, specifies that the SATA standard has the potential to top 6Gbps transfer rates; four times what the majority of drives currently offer.  While it is probably questionable if 3Gbps transfer rates are even obtainable outside all but the most intensive SATA RAID scenarios, the fact remains that “SATA II” – the name – has absolutely nothing to do with data rates. Also recall that even though a SATA device might claim 3Gbps transfer rates, 20% of the bandwidth is dedicated for parity in the encoding scheme of the bus – which is why we claim effective thoroughput of 300MBps as opposed to 375MBps.

SATA-IO claims we should identify SATA products in much the same manner we identify CPUs; by distinguishing the speed and feature set in the product description

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Build your own desktop computer

Prepare the case for the motherboard
First the case must be prepared for the installation of the various components. First remove one of the hard drive caddies from the front of the computer and put it on one side for when this is fitted.

The backing plate at the back of the case may need to be replaced to take account of the  sockets on the motherboard. The existing one can be pushed out and the new one fitted in it’s place. It may need a gentle tap with the butt of a screwdriver. The writing on the plate will help get it the right way up.

The power supply may need to be fitted if supplied separately from the computer. There are guide plates at the back of the case. Insert the power supply from inside the case and fit the four screws at the back. Make sure it is firmly fitted so it doesn’t fall onto anything.

Fitting the motherboard
The motherboard is fitted on some brass hexagonal screws. These can be fitted into various positions for different motherboards. Hold the motherboard up to the backing and make a note of which holes on the motherboard (the ones surrounded by a metal circle) match holes on the case. Fit the brass screws to match.

It is best to rest the case on it’s side to fit the motherboard. Position it in the case and screw it in firmly.

Installing the CPU and its heat sink
Fitting the CPU. This can be fiddly so be careful and don’t force anything. Open the cover on the motherboard and carefully insert the processor, taking note of the guiding lugs. Close the door. Put some heat transfer paste on the CPU and smooth it over the top. Now fit the heat sink making sure that it is plugged in to the motherboard so the fan spins.

Installing the memory
Memory is installed in pairs for best performance and the memory card slots are colour coded. There is a small indent in the memory card to make sure that it is installed the right way round. The memory is correctly installed when the catches on the side are vertical

Installing the graphics, wireless network and TV cards
These cards demonstrate the different slots PCI Express and PCI. When fitting cards make sure that they do not overlap with adjacent slots. For example the graphics card that we used blocks the slot next to it. Luckily most motherboards have enough slots that it is possible to use a different one.

Hold the card over the correct slot and remove the appropriate backing plate. Keep the screw to hand as this will be needed to hold the card in place. Plug in the card and screw it in place.

:Now the buttons on the front of the case need to be connected to the motherboard. This also includes the audio for the PC speaker and extra USB or Firewire sockets.

Connecting the power supply
There are two power connectors between the motherboard and power supply, one large and one small. They will only fit in one way, don’t force it if it doesn’t fit first time.

Installing the hard disk and optical drive
In this example both drives connect using Sata. This is easier to fit than the older Parallel (PATA) connector as the cables are smaller. Each socket only plugs into one device so there are no settings to changed on the drives or computer. There is a keying on the sockets so it is not possible to get the cables the wrong way wrong.

Finishing off
Finally, the fan on the case needs to be connected to keep the computer cool. Make sure the cables are tidy and not touching anything

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Build a new computer-case size

External Space

The first factor to consider is how much space your PC case is going to take up. Are you placing it on a tight, crammed desk? Or on a large desk? If you have the space, tower PC  cases are a good choice. If you’re short of space, you may wish to consider smaller mini PC cases which are getting more popular these days.

Internal Space

Another factor to consider is how many components you wish to fit in your PC case. If you’re a computer nut like me, you’ll want to fit in a good motherboard, CPU, a couple of hard drives, video card, LAN card, cooling fans, a CD-ROM drive and a DVD writer. That’s a lot of components to be cramming into a PC case! Again, a good choice would be a tower PC case. However, with so many components, you have to watch out for overheating problems – make sure you deck out the system with a couple of good fans.

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